Below The Radar

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TURIN

Industrial hub Turin combines serious culinary credentials with a thriving design scene and some of Europe's most spectacular Baroque buildings. This month its giant Slow Food festival Terra Madre(October 25-29, terramadre.org) joins forces with the like-minded Salone del Gusto for the first time. For more Slow Food-certified produce, there's incredible gourmet emporium Eataly (Via Nizza 230).

The pretty cobbled streets in the ancient Quadrilatero Romano quarter conceal further foodie delights. Pick between Piemontese osteria Cantine Barbaroux (Via Giuseppe Barbaroux 13), or the Neo-Head Bar (Via Bonelli 16c), in a kitsch chapel. Piazza Emanuele Filiberto is home to hip haunt Pastis (Piazza Emanuele Filiberto 9) and the vineria Tre Galli (Via Sant'Agostino 25), which does a meanbagna cauda - a warm dip made with garlic, anchovies and olive oil, and eaten with raw or roasted vegetables.

For edgy one-off pieces, hit concept store Autopsie Vestimentaire (Via Bonelli 6b). Shop for chocolate at iconic Peyrano (Corso Moncalieri 47) or read up on Turin's history of white magic in the bibliophile-friendly Via Po quarter. Nearby enolibreria (wine bookshop) Taberna Libraria (Via Bogino 5) and photography emporium Agorà (Via Santa Croce 0/E), mix intellectual and bodily pleasures.

For a cultural fix, take the glass lift at the Mole Antonelliana (Via Montebello 20). Claimed to be Europe's highest brick building, the former synagogue offers great views and a magical cinema museum. The city's strong contemporary art scene is best observed at the GAM Museum (Via Magenta 31) and Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo (Via Modane 16).

While in Italy's aperitivo capital, a Cinzano at opulent Caffè Torino (Piazza San Carlo 204) or Caffè San Carlo (Piazza San Carlo 156) is a must. Both offer cocktails and canapé buffets for under €8, while Caffè Platti (Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 72) excels in the biccerin - Turin's famous coffee, bitter chocolate and cream concoction. Delicious.

Riverside promenade Murazzi is the uncontested nightlife hub of the city. Dance away the night before holing up in romantic garret Foresteria degli Artisti (Via Artisti 15, foresteriadegliartisti.it, rooms from €90). NH Lingotto (Via Nizza 262, nh-hotels.it, rooms from €171), based within Fiat's historic Lingotto factory, features an amazing rooftop test track and Renzo Piano-designed art gallery.

GOTHENBURG

With a thriving alternative scene and increasingly cosmopolitan sleeping options, 'little London' has much to tempt weekenders away from the known delights of Stockholm. Sidestep fashionable main arteryAvenyn for a day spent browsing Haga, a genteel 19th-century quarter replete with whitewashed wooden houses and second-hand markets.

Capital of melodic death metal, Gothenburg's music and art types head to Haga's Andra Långgatan to browse vinyl at Dirty Records before kicking back at the attached Cafe Santo Domingo (Andra Långgatan 4A). Two Little Birds (Andra Långgatan 5) offers organic salads and sandwiches in a cute 1970s-style space.

Scandinavians take coffee culture very seriously, making the local rite of 'fika' - coffee and something sweet - a must.

Da Matteo (Sodra Larmgatan 14), a local coffee roastery and bakery, has a chain of excellent cafés across town, including the cute original HQ, nestled in the corridors of quaint Victoria Passage.

Pay homage to lobster season at the hallowed Feskekörkan (Fish Church) market, handily located near the canal for a scenic picnic in the autumn sun. The laid-back Familjen (Arkivgatan 7) is another top foodie address, while for prime meatballs with mash and ligonberries, Kungstorget (Kungstorget 7) gets our vote.

The areas around Södra Larmgatan and Vallgatan are a Scandinavian shopping mecca, with Our Legacy (Södra Larmgatan 7) and Whyred (Södra Larmgatan 13) doing arty, well-tailored wardrobe essentials brilliantly. Myronra (Järntorgsgatan 10) offers four floors of vintage, while Acne (Magasinsgatan 19) needs no introduction. For seriously stylish homewares, Artillerriet (Magasinsgatan 19) takes some beating. Linnégatan and the intersecting

Linnégatan are cool insider addresses with plenty of drinking haunts. Bio restaurant The Hagabion Cafe (Linnégatan 21) and publicity-shy Bar Kino share premises in a small cinema decorated with old movie posters. Basement hideaway Björns Bar (Viktoriagatan 12) serves foodie-friendly Swedish-Spanish fusion until midnight.

Heralding Gothenburg's increasing lifestyle credentials, the new Clarion Post Hotel (Drottningtorget 10, clarionpost.com, rooms from €144) occupies a 1920s former post office. Mingle with the cool set in its clubby Post Bar, or head to the equally stylish, design-friendly Avalon Hotel (Kungstorget 9, avalonhotel.se, rooms from €110) where modern art adorns the walls.

BASEL

This Swiss city is perhaps best known for hosting heavyweight fairs such as Art Basel and an annual horological showcase, but picturesque Basel is a cultural capital all year round. Begin an architour of the work of hometown stars Herzog & de Meuron - the people who created Beijing's Bird's Nest Olympic Stadium - on the Münchensteiner railway bridge, from where their shimmering monolith the Stellwerk Signal Box hoves into view.

Your next call should be Hans Holbein trove the Kunstmuseum Basel (St Alban-Graben 16, kunstmuseum basel.ch), running an Arte Povera exhibition until February 2013. Europe's first contemporary art museum, the Museum für Gegenwartskunst, is included in the ticket. The Tinguely Museum (Paul Sacher-Anlage 1, tinguely.ch), houses Swiss artist Jean Tinguely's mechanical sculptures, while tram no.6 leads to the Renzo Piano-designed Foundation Beyeler (Baselstrasse 101, beyeler.com), honouring Edgar Degas until January 2013.

The Vitra Campus (Charles-Eames-Strasse 1, design-museum.de) in nearby Weil am Rhein should be your final stop.

A unique architectural site featuring buildings by Frank Gehry, Zaha Hadid and Buckminster Fuller, its on-site museum hosts Pop Art Design (from October 13), tracing the dialogue between Pop era art and design. A parallel exhibition on installation artist Erwin Wurm runs until January 2013.

Museum hopping can be tiring, so factor in a kaffee und kuchen break at twin espresso bars Fumare Non Fumare (Gerbergasse 30), handily open on Sundays. The shrimp ravioli and de Koonings at Chez Donati (St Johanns-Vorstadt 48) make it an art-world standby, while ultramodern Euro-Asian space Noohn (Henric Petri-Strasse 12) represents Basel's concession to trend-led dining.

Raum 49 (Birmannsgasse 49) offers vintage Hans Wegner furniture, while the Schneidergasse and Spalenberg areas do offbeat fashion and jewellery. Pick up quirky Swiss accessories at Seven Sisters (Spalenberg 38) or browse lifestyle products by the likes of Comme des Garçons at Art Basel regulars Hand Made (Nadelberg 47).

Cocktails at the Kunsthalle Art Gallery (Steinenberg 7) or glitzy Acqua (Binningerstrasse 14) set in a former waterworks, are high on atmosphere.

A hipper option is industrial electronica venue nt*/Lounge (Erlenstrasse 21). Krafft (Rheingasse 12, hotelkrafft.ch, Vitra Design Museum package €253), where Hesse wrote Steppenwolf, is a prime riverside hotel, while Der Teufelhof (Leonhardsgraben 4, teufelhof.com, rooms from €140) offers nine artist-designed rooms.

HANNOVER

Since its fairground was extended for Expo 2000, north German hub Hannover has been monopolised by techie geeks flocking to key IT fair CeBIT. But, as the million visitors flocking to this month's huge Oktoberfest Hannover (until October 14, oktoberfest-hannover.de) will discover, the arty city is a tempting weekend destination in its own right.

Severely damaged by bombing in the Second World War, you can see the changing face of the city in scale models at the impressive early 20th-century town hall, the Neues Rathaus (Trammplatz 2). Don't miss the unique diagonal lift that whisks you up into the building's dome, with panoramic views.

The Kestner (Goseriede 11, kestnergesellschaft.de) is a central contemporary art space that's running solo shows by Liverpool sculptor Tony Cragg and American conceptual photographer Lewis Baltz (both until 4 November). The Sprengel Museum (Kurt-Schwitters-Platz, sprengel-museum.de) houses an important collection of 20th-century art, and an exhibition looking at the role of animals in art, from Picasso's bulls to the dragon motifs of Niki de Saint Phalle.

A Parisian by birth, Saint Phalle is the only woman to have received the Freedom of the City, and her final work - a grotto in the Grosser Garten - forms part of the impeccable Royal Herrenhausen Gardens (Herrenhäuser Strasse). Down by the banks of the River Leine, you'll find her famous Nana sculptures amid a huge Saturday flea market. Other good shopping areas include the luxe Georgstrasse,Kröpcke Uhr and Altstadt (Old Town), where intriguing little shops pop up among the timber-framed buildings.

Waschweiber (Limmerstrasse 1), a rare instance of a conceptual laundromat/bar, is a fun place to start the evening. Another curiosity - and great dancing spot - is cult Osho Diskothek (Raschplatz 7L), an eye-popping glass rotunda namechecking Indian guru Bhagwan. For concerts, try hip disused furniture store Spandau Projekt (Engelbosteler Damm 30). Late-night snacks are on offer at the cosyAlexander (Prinzenstrasse 10) until 2.30am.

Avoid Hannover's many business hotels and bed down at The Grand Hotel Mussmann (Ernst-August Platz 7, grandhotel.de, rooms from €119), furnished with designer pieces and fabulous rain showers.The Dormero Hotel (Hildesheimerstrasse 34-40, dormero-hotel-hannover.de, rooms from €58) is a very well-priced luxury option, with a free minibar and movies on demand. When playing away games, the Manchester United team refuse to stay anywhere else.

BIRMINGHAM

Lonely Planet may have left Birmingham out of its latest Discover Britain guide, but the Midlands metropolis has plenty to shout about - particularly emerging arts hub Eastside (weareeastside.com), formerly Digbeth. The industrial quarter's foundries and tanneries have been repurposed for music and art events, centering on the Custard Factory (Gibb Street).

The legendary complex hosts a Saturday morning flea market, and hip clothes shops and cafés cluster along its wharves. This month it welcomes back the annual Supersonic Festival (October 19-21, £80/ €100, supersonicfestival.com), which celebrates experimental arts. For its 10th anniversary, the innovative event celebrates Birmingham's Heavy Metal clout with a Black Sabbath-themed walking tour.

Head to the popular Eastside Café (99 Coventry Street) for lunch before hitting Digbeth's impressive contemporary art circuit. Vivid (vivid.org.uk), Ikon Eastside (ikon-gallery.co.uk), a second branch of the pioneering Ikon gallery, Grand Union (grand-union.org.uk) and Project Pigeon (project-pigeon.co.uk), an appointment-only loft celebrating the city's record amount of pigeon fanciers, are all worthy stop-offs.

Vinyl lovers should raid The Diskery Records (99-102 Bromsgrove Street), while neighbouring stores A Too (9-11 Ethel Street) and Autograph (15-17 Ethel Street) cover independent menswear and credible luxe labels (think Dries Van Noten, Raf Simons) respectively. Refuel post-shopping at South American canteen Bodega (12 Bennetts Hill), or sample a balti without braving the crowds in the popular Triangle at low-key curry house Manzil's (111-112 Digbeth High Street).

The historic Old Crown (188 High Street, Deritend), and 1960s-styled Polish Club (Bordesley Street, near the architectural work of art that is the Selfridges building) are musts on any bar crawl. TheYardbird Jazz Club (Paradise Place) and cool indie bar the Sunflower Lounge (76 Smallbrook Queensway) are good central options, while hip Moseley hosts the Hare & Hounds (106 High Street) - great for indie bands.

For more culture, Britain's oldest working cinema, The Electric (47-49 Station Street, theelectric.co.uk), offers waitress service and regular independent films. The Birmingham Repertory Theatre (George's Court, Albion Street, birmingham-rep.co.uk) is reliably good too. Finish with a nightcap overlooking the Bullring from one of the chic serviced apartments on the 20th floor of The Rotunda (150 New Street, stayingcool.com, apartments from £95/€120), or economise at the new 73-room Bloc (St Paul's, Caroline Street, blochotels.com, rooms from £30/€38), modelled on Japanese capsule hotels.

NL Uit het oog van de radar

Clodagh Kinsella evalueert vijf leuke en tegelijkertijd minder drukbezochte bestemmingen

TURIJN BEZOEK: Het beroemde Slow Food festival Terra Madre (25-29, oktober terramadre. org). Ontdek eveneens de wonderbaarlijke kruidenierszaak Eataly (Via Nizza 230). Ga voor een dinertje in de Piemontese osteria Cantine Barbaroux (Via Giuseppe Barbaroux 13), of in de Neo-Head Bar (Via Bonelli 16c), in een kitscherige kapel. In het GAM Museum (Via Magenta 31) ontdekt u de indrukwekkende hedendaagse kunstscène van de stad.

LOGIES: Het NH Lingotto (Via Nizza 262, nh-hotels.it, kamers vanaf € 171), bevindt zich in een oude Fiat-fabriek.

GÖTEBORG BEZOEK: Breng een dag door in Haga, een deftige 19de-eeuwse wijk met witgewassen houten huizen en tweedehandsmarkten. Bij Dirty Records halen muziek- en kunstliefhebbers hun hartje op tussen het vinyl om daarna te nippen van een koffie in het aangebouwde Cafe Santo Domingo (Andra Långgatan 4A). Wijdt het kreeftenseizoen in op de markt van Feskekörkan (Fish Church). Biorestaurant The Hagabion Cafe (Linnégatan 21) en Bar Kino bevinden zich in een klein bioscoopgebouw met oude filmposters.

LOGIES: Het Clarion Post Hotel (Drottningtorget 10, clarionpost.com, dubbele kamers vanaf € 144) bevindt zich in een postgebouw uit 1920.

BASEL BEZOEK: Start met een tochtje langsheen architecturale werken van plaatselijke sterren zoals Herzog & de Meuron en ontdek op de Munchensteiner spoorwegbrug hun glinsterende Stellwerk Signal Box monoliet. Op de Vitra Campus (Charles-Eames-Strasse 1, design-museum.de) ontdekt u gebouwen ontworpen door Frank Gehry en Zaha Hadid. In het museum loopt de Pop Art Design tentoonstelling (vanaf 13 oktober). In de Kunsthalle Art Gallery (Steinenberg 7) of Acqua (Binningerstrasse 14), een voormalig waterleidingsstation, staan de cocktails hoog aangeschreven.

LOGIES: Der Teufelhof (Leonhardsgraben 4, teufelhof.com, kamers vanaf € 140) biedt negen kamers die door kunstenaars werden ontworpen.

HANNOVER BEZOEK: Deze maand verzamelen zo'n miljoen bezoekers op het grootse Oktoberfest Hannover (tot 14 oktober, oktoberfest-hannover. de). Het Sprengel Museum (Kurt-Schwitters-Platz, sprengel-museum.de) herbergt een belangrijke kunstcollectie uit de 20ste eeuw. Bij Waschweiber (Limmerstrasse 1), een bar/wasserij is het leuk om de avond van start te gaan. Concertje? U bent aan het juiste adres in de voormalige meubelopslagruimte Spandau Projekt (Engelbosteler Damm 30). LOGIES: Het Dormero Hotel (Hildesheimerstraße 34-40, dormero-hotel-hannover.de, dubbele kamers vanaf € 58) is een aantrekkelijk geprijsde luxeaccommodatie.

BIRMINGHAM BEZOEK: Niet te missen: het nieuwe kunstcentrum Eastside (weareeastside.com) en de Custard Factory (Gibb Street) in Digbeth, met een vlooienmarkt op zaterdagochtend. Deze maand wordt er het jaarlijkse Supersonic Festival (19-21 oktober, £ 80/€ 100, supersonicfestival. com) kunstenfestival georganiseerd. Het emblematische Old Crown (188 High Street, Deritend) en de Polish Club (Bordesley Street) in jaren '60 stijl, zijn echte musts. In de wijk Mosely kunt u terecht bij Hare & Hounds (106 High Street), dat indiegroepen verwelkomt.

FR Hors des écrans radars Clodagh Kinsella recense les attraits de cinq destinations cools et toutefois moins courues

TURIN VISITER : le célèbre festival Slow Food Terra Madre se déroule du 25 au 29 octobre (terramadre.org). Découvrez aussi l'épicerie gourmande Eataly (Via Nizza 230). Optez pour un dîner à l'osteria piémontaise Cantine Barbaroux (Via Giuseppe Barbaroux 13), ou au Neo-Head Bar (Via Bonelli 16c), dans une chapelle kitsch. Et pour un bon aperçu de la foisonnante scène artistique, le GAM Museum est incontournable (Via Magenta 31).

LOGER : le NH Lingotto (Via Nizza 262, nh-hotels. it, chambres à partir de 171 €) est installé dans l'usine historique de Fiat.

GÖTEBORG VISITER : passez la journée à Haga, un quartier du 19e siècle aux maisons de bois blanchi et marchés de seconde main. Cherchez des vinyles chez Dirty Records, avant un café à côté, au Cafe Santo Domingo (Andra Långgatan 4A). Célébrez la saison du homard au marché de Feskekörkan (Fish Church). Le restaurant bio The Hagabion Cafe (Linnégatan 21) et le Bar Kino partagent leurs locaux dans un petit cinéma, au décor d'affiches de films.LOGER : Le Clarion Post Hotel (Drottningtorget 10, clarionpost.com, à partir de 144 €) est un ancien bureau de poste de 1920.

BÂLE VISITER : commencez par un tour architectural des stars locales, Herzog & de Meuron, sur le pont du chemin de fer Munchensteiner, d'où l'on aperçoit leur éclatant monolithe Stellwerk Signal Box. Le Vitra Campus (Charles-Eames-Strasse 1, design-museum.de), comprend des réalisations de Frank Gehry et Zaha Hadid. Son musée présente Pop Art Design, à partir du 13 octobre. Les cocktails à la Kunsthalle Art Gallery (Steinenberg 7) ou Acqua (Binningerstrasse 14), une ancienne centrale hydraulique, sont hautement recommandés. LOGER : Der Teufelhof (Leonhardsgraben 4, teufelhof.com, chambres à partir de 140 €) offre neuf chambres conçues par des artistes.

HANNOVRE VISITER : 1 million de visiteurs vont affluer au grand Oktoberfest Hannover (jusqu'au 14 octobre, oktoberfest-hannover.de). Le Sprengel Museum (Kurt-Schwitters-Platz, sprengel-museum.de) possède une importante collection d'art du 20e siècle. Waschweiber (Limmerstrasse

1), un concept de bar/lavoir, est amusant pour commencer la soirée. Un concert ? Allez dans l'ex-entrepôt de meubles Spandau Projekt (Engelbosteler Damm 30).

LOGER : l'hôtel Dormero (Hildesheimerstrasse 34-40, dormero-hotel-hannover.de, doubles à partir de 58 €) est une option luxueuse à bon prix.

BIRMINGHAM VISITER : ne manquez pas le nouveau hub artistique Eastside (weareeastside. com), centré autour de la Custard Factory (Gibb Street) à Digbeth, avec son marché aux puces le samedi. Ce mois-ci, s'y tient le festival annuel des arts Supersonic (octobre 19-21, 80 £ / 100 €, supersonicfestival.com). L'emblématique Old Crown (188 High Street, Deritend), et le Polish Club, de style 1960, (Bordesley Street) sont des musts. Le quartier de Moseley héberge le Hare & Hounds (106 High Street), rendez-vous des groupes indie.

LOGER : Bloc (St Paul's, Caroline Street, blochotels.com, doubles à partir de 30 £ / 38 €), est conçu sur le modèle des hôtels capsules japonais.

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