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Oded Ezer
Tel Aviv
When novelist Jonathan Safran Foer was looking for a designer to breathe life into his modern version of Passover text The Haggadah, he turned to typographic experimentalist Oded Ezer. "Since early childhood I was fascinated by letters and typography," says Ezer. "I'd stare at every street sign to understand why type looks the way it does." Famous for endowing Hebrew (and Latin) type with a strangely human character, he's prone to binding and gagging letters to render their emotive qualities, or warping them into insects, as in his celebrated Biotypography.
A more commercial venture, his New American Haggadah design still manages to innovate - providing a virtual history of Hebrew type. "Deliberately or not, Haggadah designs have reflected the time in which they were made," Ezer explains. "My notion was to merge, visually, the history of the Jewish nation with the traditional text of the Haggadah."
www.ezerdesign.com
Yulia And Inga Twins
Moscow
Ask any Muscovite hipster where they like to hang out, and the answer will almost certainly be pioneering creative hub Solyanka. "Five years ago when Solyanka opened, there was no such thing as a restaurant, club and shop co-existing under the same roof," remembers Inga, who runs on-site boutique Twins with twin sister Yulia.
Stocking hip Scandinavian labels alongside like-minded Russian designers including Gosha Rubchinskiy, Twins is literally helping to redress Moscow's prevailing appetite for designer bling. The space itself aims for an eclectic, yet homely, aesthetic.
"We sourced much of the interior decoration at vintage markets in London," says Inga. "As with the brands we choose, we like things that have a story to tell." With Solyanka recently spawning a number of imitations, Twins is playing a starring role in its very own, rather inspiring, success story.
www.s-11.ru/english/twins-shopp
Fabio Novembre
Milan
"Style is something you make, not something youfollow," claims superstar designer Fabio Novembre. In his case, it's particularly apt; one of Italy's most celebrated creatives, Novembre makes whimsical furniture alongside saturated colour interiors for the likes of Fiat and Via Spiga.
After his omnipresent Nemo chair, modelled on a Greek theatre mask, new vase collection Happy Pills features colourful Murano glass moulded into the form of pharmaceutical capsules. Novembre calls them a "placebo from Murano", and they certainly showcase his sense of fun.
"A good mood is my personal approach to life in general," says the exuberant designer. "The lullaby I always sing to my daughters goes: 'It's better to smile than to cry'. It's the approach that I bring to my designs, because what I do is always a consequence of how I feel."
www.novembre.it
Arquiste
New York
Few perfume brands begin with historicalpreservation, but Arquiste, whose scents "transport the wearer in time", does most things differently.
"Every time I researched a building or city for work, I would come across an anecdote that led me to think, what did it smell like?" recalls founder Carlos Huber. Combining his architectural background with a passion for grooming, he soon innovated fragrances like Alexsandr, which mines "a wintry afternoon in St Petersburg, 1837".
His method is strikingly similar to the one used in building restorations. "I visit the site, research books and other sources, and talk to experts in the period," he says. Once authentic periodic 'notes' have been identified, he calls in top international noses to recreate them. Restoring the olfactive experience of a time means choosing wisely. "It's important to pick stories that have a lot of material to work with, and ultimately, that will smell good!" he admits.
www.arquiste.com
Ett Hem
Stockholm
Located in the upmarket residential quarter of Lärkstan, boutique guesthouse Ett Hem ('a home') offers a sophisticated alternative to faceless luxury hotels.
Opened in May, the 12-bedroom property dates from 1910, and was sensitively restored by architect-interiors guru Ilse Crawford alongside Swedish owner Jeannette Mix.
"We wanted to tell the ongoing story of the people and the place," says Crawford, who even oversaw the precise placement of the breakfast trays. "The idea was to create a design that frames life and puts the human being at the centre."
Decorated with stylish Scandinavian antiques and furniture, the property boasts ample mod cons like marble baths and a sauna, but guests are also invited to help themselves to the fridge, take the dog for a walk, or even borrow the car. The world's top concierges haven't thought of that one.
www.etthemstockholm.se
Rein Vollenga
Berlin
Championed by i-D and Vogue Italia, Netherlands-born Vollenga creates sculptures fusing man and machine. "As a child I loved to make masks, hats and outfits," reveals Vollenga. "I dreamt of being a fashion designer but never got the hang of using a sewing machine."
Instead, after art school, he concocted stage outfits for underground performers, forging his own line in futuristic "wearable sculptures". The latter begin life as found objects, before being transformed by hand sculpting and an ultra glossy finish. Half art and half physical adornments, the striking synthetic creations have already attracted star patrons like Thierry Mugler and Lady Gaga.
"In my personal style I mimic the mass like most people," admits the designer. "But with my wearable sculptures I like to mash things up, from traditional Japanese art forms to organic shapes and popular culture."
www.reinvollenga.com
Joe Stretch
Manchester
If you thought misanthropy was the preserve of continental writers like Michel Houellebecq, look no further than Joe Stretch, whose Manchester-set debut Fiction abounded with bad sex, technological woes and youth in crisis. "I try to keep it somewhere between sad and hilarious," says Stretch, who also fronts electro-pop outfit Performance, and who authored the first interactive novel for Spotify (fashion favourites Hurts soundtracked it and actress Anna Friel narrated).
The Adult, released last month by Jonathan Cape, chronicles the period 1989-2009. "In 1989, aged seven, I watched the Berlin Wall fall on TV," explains Stretch. "Since then, I've been aggravated by the myth that we live in post-ideological times. All my writing, to some extent, is based on the belief that ideology is ever-present." If that sounds rather dour, he promises a fair dose of satire too.
www.myspace.com/weareperformance
Tilt
Toulouse
Toulouse has produced more than its fair share of graffiti stars, but Tilt's bubble designs remain immediately iconic. "I would say my style is classic, simple, bubble-'istic' and kind of primitive," explains the artist, whose international BubbleGirls series has seen him evolve to spray painting the human body.
Earlier this year, reprising a similar stint at a Paris gallery, he "destroyed" a room at Marseille's Au Vieux Panier Hotel. The Panic Room is split down the middle, with one half coated in tags and throw-ups (rounded letters created quickly) and the other completely white.
"I saw it as a huge canvas where I needed to think about composition," says Tilt. "I played with the empty white part of the room to accentuate the chaos on the other side." While poking fun at graffiti's 'ugly' reputation, the exaggerated design paradoxically serves to showcase its beauty.
www.graffitilt.blogspot.com
El Equipo Creativo
Barcelona
For Barcelona-based Tickets, their follow-up to legendary restaurant El Bulli, the Adrià brothers wanted a canvas as playful as their cuisine. Step forward El Equipo Creativo, an architecture firm specialising in spaces for gastronomy.
"Ferran and Albert were quite specific about their vision for the space," recalls Natali Canas del Pozo, who co-designed both the kitsch, theatrical tapas bar and adjoining cocktail haunt 41º with Oliver Franz Schmidt."They wanted a festival-like atmosphere, with different bars, stalls and kiosks showcasing specific cooking processes." Mediating clients' needs is more important to the duo than any personal aesthetic which is fortunate, as their latest challenge, nearby Brazilian-Japanese restaurant Ikibana, required a complete volte-face.
The forest-like interior, all woven wood and natural greens, pulls off a very delicate balancing act. Says del Pozo: "From the beginning we understood that landscape was very important to both cultures, and this became the inspiration for the design."
www.elequipocreativo.com
La Paz
Porto
Founded by fashion mogul André Bastos, La Paz is a new ethical brand inspired by Portuguese fishermen and classic gentleman's style. "Back in 2003 I started a project with the idea of crossing clothing with anthropology, an area that I love," Bastos reveals.
The Merchant Studio, an emporium of vintage kimonos, far-flung artisanal objects and hip brands like Lacoste and Percival, soon took shape. The stock reflects Bastos' thoroughly modern sense of dress. "An African indigo cloth can be used around your neck with a modern Indian shirt, a European knit, Japanese denim and an Argentinian belt," says the dapper CEO. A year and a half ago, seeing how many major brands were fabricating their clothes in Portugal, Bastos created the La Paz line.
A chic and affordable range that references Portuguese heritage, its profits will help to fund humanitarian projects like La Paz's T-shirt range NOT MADE IN CHINA, which promotes Tibetan culture.
www.lapaz.pt
FR Au-delà des limites
Clodagh Kinsella rencontre dix créateurs qui font reculer les limites de leur univers
TEL AVIV Oded Ezer, typographe Célèbre pour avoir doté la typographie hébraïque d'un côté étonnamment humain, Ezer déforme les lettres pour rendre leurs qualités émotives, ou les forger en insectes, comme dans son Biotypography. www.ezerdesign.com
MOSCOU Yulia and Inga, propriétaires de magasin La boutique Twins située dans le hub culturel « Solyanka » propose des marques scandinaves tendances ainsi que des tenues de designers russes émergents tels que Gosha Rubchinskiy. www.s-11.ru/english/twins-shopp
MILAN Fabio Novembre, mobilier et aménagement intérieur Novembre conçoit du mobilier et des espaces intérieurs fantasques pour des entreprises comme Fiat ou Via Spiga. Ses nouveaux vases Happy Pills, en verre coloré de Murano, sont en forme de gélules. www.novembre.it
NEW YORK Arquiste, parfums Le fondateur Carlos Huber développe sa passion pour les fragrances qui « transportent dans l'histoire », comme Alexsandr, qui promet une « une après-midi glaciale à Saint-Pétersbourg, 1837 ». www.arquiste.com
STOCKHOLM Ett Hem, maison d'hôtes de charme Cette résidence offre une alternative sophistiquée aux hôtels de luxe impersonnels. Ouverte en mai, la propriété de 12 chambres, datant de 1910, a été restaurée par la gourou de l'architecture d'intérieur, Ilse Crawford. www.etthemstockholm.se
BERLIN Rein Vollenga, styliste de mode Né aux Pays-Bas, Vollenga a créé des dispositifs scéniques pour des performers underground, avant de lancer ses propres « sculptures portables », fusion de l'homme et de la machine. www.reinvollenga.com
MANCHESTER Joe Stretch, romancier et musicien Le 3ème sublime roman de Stretch, The Adult, publié le mois dernier, est une chronique des années 1989-2009. Il réalise également des performances electro-pop, et a signé le premier roman interactif pour Spotify. www.myspace.com/weareperformance
TOULOUSE Tilt, artiste graffiti Avec ses lettres emblématiques en forme de 'bulles', Tilt a « explosé » une chambre de l'hôtel Au Vieux Panier, à Marseille, plus tôt cette année. Une moitié de la pièce est couverte de tags, l'autre, peinte en blanc. www.graffitilt.blogspot.com
BARCELONE El Equipo Creativo, architectes et architectes d'intérieur Spécialistes d'aménagement de restaurants, Natali Canas del Pozo et Oliver Franz Schmidt ont créé Tickets, un bar à tapas kitsch, ainsi que 41º, un cocktail-bar pour El Bulli, de Ferran et Albert Adria. www.elequipocreativo.com
PORTO La Paz, marque fashion Fondée par André Bastos, le magnat de la mode, La Paz est une nouvelle marque éthique inspirée des pêcheurs portugais et du style classique « gentleman ». www.lapaz.pt
NL Grenzeloos
Clodagh Kinsella sprak met tien grensverleggende creatievelingen
TEL AVIV Oded Ezer, boekdrukker Ezer schonk het Hebreeuwse lettertype een vreemd menselijk karakter en wil letters binden om hun gevoelskarakter weer te geven, of hij maakt er insecten van, zoals in zijn biotypografie. www.ezerdesign.com
MOSKOU Julia en Inga, boetiekuitbaters Solyanka Twin verkoopt hippe Scandinavische labels en creaties van vergelijkbare Russische ontwerpers, zoals Gosja Roebtsjinskij. www.s-11.ru/english/twins-shopp
MILAAN Fabio Novembre, meubelen en interieur Novembre maakt eigenaardige meubelen voor Fiat en Via Spiga. Zijn nieuwe vazencollectie Happy Pills bestaat uit kleurrijk Murano-glas gegoten in de vorm van farmaceutische capsules. www.novembre.it
NEW YORK Arquiste, parfumeur Oprichter Carlos Huber combineert zijn architecturale achtergrond met een passie voor vernieuwende parfums, zoals Alexsandr- een "winterse middag in St.-Petersburg, 1837". www.arquiste.com
STOCKHOLM Ett Hem, boetiekgastenverblijf Dit boetiekgastenverblijf opende in mei zijn deuren. Het gebouw uit 1910 met 12 kamers werd door interieurarchitect Ilse Crawford gerestaureerd, in overleg met de Zweedse eigenares, Jeannette Mix. www.etthemstockholm.se
BERLIJN Rein Vollenga, modeontwerper De Nederlandse Vollenga creëert sculpturen die mens en machine doen fuseren. Na zijn studies ontwierp hij zijn eigen lijn van futuristische "draagbare sculpturen". www.reinvollenga.com
MANCHESTER Joe Stretch, romanschrijver en muzikant De schitterende derde roman van Stretch, The Adult, die vorige maand werd gepubliceerd, is een kroniek van de periode 1989-2009. Hij is ook de auteur van de eerste interactieve roman voor Spotify. www.myspace.com/weareperformance
TOULOUSE Tilt, graffitikunstenaar Met zijn iconische "bubbelontwerpen" eerder dit jaar "vernielde" Tilt een kamer in hotel Au Vieux Panier in Marseille: de ene helft staat vol met tags, de andere helft is wit geschilderd. www.graffitilt.blogspot.com
BARCELONA El Equipo Creativo, (interieur)architecten Natali Canas del Pozo en Oliver Franz Schmidt creëerden Tickets, een kitscherige, theatrale tapasbar en voor Ferran en Albert Adria van El Bulli een cocktailbar - 41º - daar vlakbij. www.elequipocreativo.com
PORTO La Paz, modemerk La Paz werd opgericht door modemagnaat André Bastos. Het is een nieuw, ethisch merk geïnspireerd door de Portugese vissers en de klassieke gentlemanstijl. www.lapaz.pt
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