CAPITAL VINTAGE!

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Illustration Tanya Cooper

It's Saturday morning and despite the rain, Rue des Chartreux is milling with shoppers. Rue Dansaert may be home to Belgian fashion and luxury flagships, but this is the street on the rise, and in terms of my mission, ie, that of an expert rifler, it's the vintage lodestar.

Gabriele Vintage at number 27, beloved of stylists, wardrobe mistresses and Bruxelloises seeking a standout piece, is one of the scene's founding pillars. A former costume designer, German owner Gabriele Wolf has covered miles and miles in the hunt for unique vintage pieces that deserve a second life. "What I find interesting is to take things out of their context and reuse them in whatever way, like a string of pearls," she says, gesturing at the pearl-adorned day dresses and silk slips that line the elegant boutique's two adjoining rooms.

The stock dates from the 1920s until the 1980s, for reasons of quality control, as well as aesthetics. "Until the 1920s, designers used materials like silk and brocade which aren't viable now outside of haute couture," Wolf explains. While Brussels' retro and label-led shops are blooming, this is the authentic article: the fruit of research, a little magic and an awful lot of hats. The latter tend to transfix customers. "Actually, that's my idea, in a way," Wolf tells me. "To bring fantasy into the everyday."

Neighbour Isabelle Bajart at number 25 is a more modern affair; all stripped wooden floorboards and colour-coded racks of vintage and Bajart's own designs. I peruse well-priced Paco Rabanne and pyjama-style Ted Lapidus trousers, settling on a coral cropped vest. A nearby branch of charitable Belgian clothing chain T2, or Think Twice on Rue du Vieux Marché aux Grains could benefit from Bajart's restrained selection, but the flares and retro homewares (often slashed to €1) are a hit with the teenage crowd.

Beautifully designed Ramon & Valy on Rue des Teinturiers is all about high-end Chanel and Dior. Such has been its success, the Spanish and Belgian owners had to cease their line in customising vintage haute couture. I squeeze into a statement YSL jumpsuit only to find I have to do a walk of shame to access the shop-floor mirror. It's normally my pet hate, but the owners' friendly advice helps to ease any shyness.

At Burlesque! on Rue du Midi, quiff-sporting owner Laurence B is giving a girl a classic pin-up hairdo. To describe him as a "character" is an understatement: not content with running his boutique, the Glaswegian record producer and make-up artist runs a club night at The Shamrock, where his customers can show off their rockabilly and burlesque purchases. Brandishing a Sportmax twinset, I enquire whether he accepts cards. "Toutes les femmes, mais pas de cartes," he bats back. The devilish smile isn't lost in translation.

Less a shop than a canvas for a life-long passion, Tata Yoyo & Pauline Carton on Place Roupe is, by far, my favourite find. Named after the batty aunt Tata Yoyo, who figures in a song by Belgian star Annie Corby, and florid 1930s actress Pauline Carton, it overflows with personality. The walls bear the owner's wedding snaps, while her daughter, who studies at La Cambre fashion school, designed the flyers.

"I've always loved clothes, but spent my life in chef's whites," explains larger-than-life owner Paule. "My mother said fashion was ephemeral, but people always had to eat." Two years ago, when Paule got her pension, the Robert Clergerie and Thierry Mugler she had stockpiled over the years finally got an outlet - as did her magpie eye for fashion. "People say there's too much choice here, but true vintage lovers want a treasure hunt," she argues. I surface hours later with some Mani (Armani diffusion line) trousers, and the feeling I've met someone special.

After a good night's sleep at the Pantone Hotel, the stylish hotel of colours on Place Loix, I enjoy panoramic views from the glass elevator that gives access to Marolles, a trendy district that's home to the sprawling bric-a-brac and flea market at Place du Jeu de Balle. Reluctantly I bypass cute outdoor cafés where diners are enjoying huge burgers to the strains of energetic jazz - I'm keen to snaffle a bargain before the dealers start packing up.

Stretching out in all directions, the cobbled square is thronging with dealers' pitches.

Acting as a default perimeter, makeshift stalls and trestle tables strain under Leica cameras and vintage photo albums, while the ground is covered by hundreds of cardboard boxes crying out for a proper rummage.

From antique chairs to dirt-cheap shoes, this is something of a thrifter's dream. Leading off the square, the charming Rue des Renards reveals another target: Foxhole Vintage, an affordable chain offering Casio watches alongside retro clothes.

I retrace my steps and head down Rue Haute, stumbling on vintage veteran Idiz Bogam. There's a ceramic leopard in the glass vitrines, steered by an art deco mannequin in a visor. Bogam started out in Rue Dansaert two decades ago, and alongside vintage dresses and shoes, she's known for championing underground Belgian designers.

This new HQ has a cute coffee bar and expensive design furniture. The two shop staff - somewhat anachronistic gothic East London hipster types - are advising a polished sexagenarian; I think I've found the perfect blend of old and new.

Parallel to Rue Haute, the milling Rue Blaes offers endless vintage options. Out of all of them, I find Modes to be the real deal. The attic-like boutique is crammed with lace and fabric, Victorian nightshirts and a noteworthy selection of men's vintage shoes. It's not the trendiest place I've come across, but I'm amazed at the reasonable prices, given the quality of the Belgian and Dutch couture on offer.

Before I depart, there's just time for a trip to 40-year-old Les Enfants d'Edouard on Avenue Louise. Set in a grand mansion, it reminds me of Paris's plentifuldépôts-vente (luxury consignments) with its plush stash of Alaïa gowns and Hermès scarves. The ultimate test of a vintage shop is whether you buy something. I struggle out under the weight of a 1940s-style Sonia Rykiel jumper, some Balenciaga jeans, and pristine Dries Van Noten sandals. Not bad going for under €100.

Brussels' Finest Vintage Destinations

Gabriele Vintage
Rue des Chartreux 27, 1000 Brussels +32 (0)2 512 67 43 www.gabrielevintage.com

Isabelle Bajart
Rue des Chartreux 25, 1000 Brussels +32 (0)478 24 37 88 www.isabellebajart.com

T2/Think Twice
Rue du Vieux Marché aux Grains 57, 1000 Brussels www.thinktwice-humana.be

Ramon & Valy
Rue des Teinturiers 19, 1000 Brussels +32 (0)2 511 05 10

Burlesque!
Rue du Midi 64, 1000 Brussels +32 (0)479 41 15 39 www.vintageburlesquestore.com

Tata Yoyo & Pauline Carton
Place Roupe 7, 1000 Brussels +32 (0)487 24 33 13 www.facebook.com/Tata YoyoPaulineCarton

Marolles Flea Market
Place du Jeu de Balle, Brussels www.marcheauxpuces.be

Foxhole Vintage
Due des Renards 6, 1000 Brussels +32 (0)477 20 53 36 www.foxholeshop.com

Idiz Bogam
Rue Haute 180-182, 1000 Brussels +32 (0)2 512 10 32 www.myspace.com/idizbogam

Modes
Rue Blaes 164, Brussels +32 (0)2 512 49 07 www.modes-antique-textiles.com

Les Enfants d'Edouard
Avenue Louise 175-177A, 1050 Brussels +32 (0)2 640 42 45 www.lesenfantsdedouard.net

Pantone Hotel
Place Loix 1, 1060 Brussels +32 (0)2 541 48 98 www.pantonehotel.com

FR Capitale du vintage

Pour les fans de vintage, Bruxelles regorge de boutiques de seconde main de qualité. Un carnet d'adresses signé Violet Gabor

Gabriele Vintage, au n°27 de la rue des Chartreux, est l'adresse favorite des stylistes et Bruxelloises en quête d'originalité. C'est un des piliers de la scène vintage.

Juste à côté, Isabelle Bajart est une boutique plus moderne, avec ses étagères colorées, ornées d'objets vintage et de créations personnelles. Non loin de là, l'enseigne caritative de vêtements T2, ou Think Twice, rue du Vieux Marché aux Grains, propose des pantalons pattes d'éléphant et des accessoires rétro pour la maison (souvent bradés à 1 €) qui font fureur auprès des jeunes.

Ramon & Valy, rue des Teinturiers, est une belle boutique dédiée au haut-de-gamme Chanel ou Dior. Chez Burlesque!, rue du Midi, le propriétaire Laurence B, originaire de Glasgow, est producteur de musique et make-up artist. Il organise aussi des soirées au Shamrock - tenues rockabilly et burlesques de rigueur !

Vitrine d'une passion, Tata Yoyo & Pauline Carton, place Rouppe, est de loin ma découverte préférée, débordante de personnalité.

Après une nuit au très stylé Pantone Hotel, place Loix, je me promène jusqu'aux Marolles, royaume du bric-à-brac, avec son marché aux puces place du Jeu de Balle (www.marcheauxpuces.be).Au début de la place, la charmante rue des Renards abrite le Foxhole Vintage, une enseigne abordable de vêtements rétro.

Revenant sur mes pas, je descends la rue Haute et tombe sur le vétéran des magasins vintage, Idiz Bogam : une des figures emblématiques du design underground.

La rue Blaes fourmille de magasins vintage. Impossible de les présenter tous ici, mais Modes est sans aucun doute une bonne adresse. Cette boutique aux allures de grenier regorge de dentelles, de tissus ou de chaussures de style victorien.

Avant mon départ, j'ai juste le temps d'aller chez Les Enfants d'Edouard, boutique quadragénaire sur l'Avenue Louise, qui me rappelle les dépôts-vente parisiens, avec ses robes Alaia et ses foulards Hermès.

NL Vintagehoofdstad

Liefhebbers van kwaliteitstweedehandswinkels moeten in Brussel zijn, volgens Violet Gabor

Gabriele Vintage (Kartuizersstraat 24) is geliefd bij stilisten en Brusselaars die op zoek zijn naar een uniek vintagestuk.

Buurvrouw Isabelle Bajart, op nummer 25, heeft op vloerplanken van ontschorst hout en kleurrijke rekken alleen vintage en eigen creaties. T2 of Think Twice niet ver daarvandaan (Oude Graanmarkt) - een winkel van de Belgische liefdadigheidskledingketen met een opvallende etalage en retro huisraad - is een succes bij tieners.

Bij Ramon & Valy (Verversstraat) draait het allemaal om de luxe van Chanel en Dior. Bij Burlesque! (Zuidstraat) geeft eigenaar Laurence B een meisje een klassiek pin-upkapsel. Deze platenproducer uit Glasgow baat in de Shamrock ook een nachtclub uit.

Tata Yoyo & Pauline Carton (Rouppeplein) is veruit mijn favoriete winkel, omdat hij zo veel persoonlijkheid heeft.

Na een welverdiende nachtrust in het stijlvolle Pantone Hotel (Loixplein) kuier ik tot aan de Marollen, een trendy wijk mét rommelmarkt op het Vossenplein (www.marcheauxpuces.be). In de charmante Vossenstraat verkoopt Foxhole Vintage retrokleren.

In de Hoogstraat prijkt de veteraan onder de vintagewinkels: Idiz Bogam, een zaak die twee decennia geleden in de Dansaertstraat - dé straat van de "underground" designers - begon.

In de gezellig drukke Blaesstraat aan vintageopties geen gebrek, maar Modes is de "place to be" voor kant en stof, Victoriana en vintageschoenen voor heren.

Voor ik de stad verlaat, loop ik nog even binnen bij de 40-jaar oude Les Enfants d'Edouard (Louisalaan), dat me aan de Parijse dépôts-vente doet denken, met zijn jurken van Alaia en sjaaltjes van Hermes.

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