November brings the “Zaz” International Festival for Performance Art . With Tamar Raban at the helm as its artistic director, it will provide a showcase for 30 performance artists from Israel and further afield.
Start your day with breakfast at laid-back Rothschild 12 or bookstore café Book Worm (7 Mazeh Street, (0)3 535 7907), on the ground floor of the Chelouche Art Gallery.
A hit with Tel Aviv’s bohemian crowd, Sheleg Café serves both Mediterranean and classic Israeli dishes. In the morning it offers nine different breakfasts; later in the day, there are sandwiches and salads.
Two minutes east is Pappas, an Italianrun trattoria on the fringes of the market. Regulars swear by the “Davide”pizza, topped with pepperoni, chilli and ricotta.
Named after the ballet impresario and founder of the Ballets Russes, the Diaghilev Live Art Boutique Hotel (rooms from €144/ NIS735) has a central location, spacious rooms and exceptionally friendly staff. Rich oriental rugs and paintings and sculptures by Israeli artists add warmth to the understated decor.
Set in a landmark building that dates from the 1930s, the Townhouse Tel Aviv (rooms from €150/NIS765) is a 19-room boutique hotel. The decor is impeccable (think handmade rugs, polished parquet floors and big, comfortable beds), while little extras include free Wi-Fi and bikes for guests to borrow.
Local designer Daniella Lehavi is known for her luxury leather goods, all handmade in Israel, with a range that runs from belts and wallets to capacious tote bags. The elegant flagship store also features special-edition pieces.
Vanity is a carefully curated little boutique selling clothes, accessories and vintage couture pieces, hand-picked by owner Orna Shaul.
Near the Great Synagogue, Port Said serves tasty Middle Eastern bar food such as chickpea-sprinkled hummus masabacha.
Café Europa is packed every night until its 2am closing time, serving excellent cocktails and sophisticated small plates such as beef tartare or tuna ceviche.
For casual drinks, try the effortlessly hip Lucifer or Cookies and Cream (99 Allenby Street).
A hidden door in a sandwich shop leads to Deli, a smooth cocktail bar and club. At the weekends it hosts LATER’s cutting-edge house and techno parties, featuring rising talents from Berlin, Hamburg, London and, of course, Tel Aviv.