Florence
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Culture
The Museo di Santa Maria Novella
The Museo di Santa Maria Novella is set around the church’s ‘green cloister’. Renaissance painter Paolo Uccello provided the frescoes, the most famous of which is The Deluge. Ironically, the paintings were almost destroyed by the Great Arno Flood of 1966 – you can still see the high-water mark on the walls.
Renaissance Palazzo Strozzi
Americans in Florence: Sargent and the American Impressionists (until 15 July) graces the Renaissance Palazzo Strozzi with works by painters, including John Singer Sargent and JAM Whistler. Thursday evenings are half-price.
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Eat
Zeb
Zeb is one of a new generation of Tuscan delis that offer affordable dining right at the counter. There’s a 1950s Scandinavian feel to the decor, and the menu usually features classic combinations prepared simply, to allow the ingredients to shine. Closed on Wednesdays.
Ora d’Aria
There’s more to city-centre dining than traditional trattorias and hearty fare. At Ora d’Aria , Michelin-starred chef Marco Stabile brings his trademark light, contemporary touch to Tuscan ingredients. The lunchtime tasting menu is good value.
Ora d’Aria
There’s more to city-centre dining than traditional trattorias and hearty fare. At Ora d’Aria , Michelin-starred chef Marco Stabile brings his trademark light, contemporary touch to Tuscan ingredients. The lunchtime tasting menu is good value.
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Tip
San Miniato al Monte
For the best panorama of the city, make your way to the steps in front of San Miniato al Monte at twilight. From its perch high above Oltrarno you can see the whole Renaissance city laid out below.
Florence’s Marquee Piazzas
Do as locals do and drink your coffee at the bar (al banco), especially around Florence’s marquee piazzas. Different prices apply if you choose to sit outside and people-watch – and they can be eyewateringly expensive.
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Sleep
Rosso 23
Rosso 23 (rooms from €109) has affordable, stylish rooms right on Florence’s priciest square.
JK Place
If you want to blow the budget, JK Place (rooms from €270) is the area’s most fashionable address.
La Dimora degli Angeli
La Dimora degli Angeli (rooms from €110) is a family-run bed and breakfast whose individually decorated rooms come with a dash of modern baroque elegance.
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Shop
The Officina Profumo- Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella
The Officina Profumo- Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is devoted to the ancient art of creating fragrances. The shop, run by the Dominicans since 1612, sells Florence’s finest perfumes, soaps, and essential oils.
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Later
Il Rifrullo
Oltrarno is where you’ll find Florence’s best outdoor nightlife, and the corner of Via San Miniato and Via San Niccolò is lively until late. Il Rifrullo has been serving great cocktails for three decades.
Fuori Porta
Fuori Porta has the better wine list if vino is your thing.
Context Travel
Context Travel runs the best expert-led walks around the city. Their Florence Evening Introduction runs throughout July, and leads you on an evening stroll of the historic centre and cleverly avoids the fiercest of the summer heat. It costs €40 per person.
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