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Brussels

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January 2013 | Words Emma Beddington

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  • Culture

    Bozar

    Bozar is Brussels’ centre for fine arts: a multi-disciplinary space with a spirited programme of exhibitions, concerts and family events. The big exhibition for January is a retrospective of works by Flemish expressionist Constant Permeke, but that’s backed up by myriad other offerings, including an ongoing Arab music season.

    Musical Instruments Museum

    Two minutes’ walk away, the Musical Instruments Museum might sound dry but is actually rather good fun: housed in an Art Nouveau department store building with stunning views over the city, it comes alive thanks to headsets and audio extracts.

    Heckenhauer Gallery

    The Heckenhauer Gallery displays contemporary photography. Until 19 January, it’s showcasing works by Russian photographer Nadya Kuznetsova, whose black-and-white portraits have a romantic, painterly feel.

    Van Buuren Museum

    The Van Buuren Museum is a perfectly preserved Art Deco villa, surrounded by beautiful gardens. The interiors were conceived by collectors Alice and David van Buuren to represent the pinnacle of 1930s design, taking in stained glass, sculptures, textiles and antiques.

  • Eat

    Bozar Brasserie

    The Bozar Brasserie is a cut above the usual museum canteen: chef David Martin has a Michelin star at his other Brussels restaurant, La Paix, and there’s some seriously good cooking on display. At €25, the two-course weekday lunch is an affordable way to try it out.

    Royal Brasserie

    It’s impossible not to be cheered by the Royal Brasserie, an infectiously jolly restaurant with excellent seafood, a sociable crowd of locals and plentiful portions. Set in a white-tiled, soberly elegant former tripe butchers’ shop,

    Viva M’Boma

    Viva M’Boma specialises in nose-to-tail eating, with an emphasis on offal. The name, if you’re wondering, translates as ‘long live granny’ in Brussels dialect.

    Les Pêcheries

    Set in a former dairy on the banks of the Boitsfort pond, Les Pêcheries is a classic brasserie with a view that’s scarcely credible in a capital city; you might even spot a heron fishing.

    Epicerie Ici

    New café-deli Epicerie Ici has a cosy, thrift-chic interior and a menu of fresh juices and seasonal dishes (salads, tartines, roasted veggies). It also sells hard-to-find gourmet treats like Poilâne bread, and some pretty kitchenware.

  • Tip

    Starbucks

    If you really can’t live without your skinny mocha latte, Brussels’ only citycentre Starbucks opened last year on the concourse of Central Station.

    Le Saint- Aulaye

    Local patisserie hero Le Saint- Aulaye has recently moved just north of Place Brugmann. Try the Phénix, an amazing blackcurrant and pistachio mousse.

  • Sleep

    Le Méridien

    Directly opposite Central Station, Le Méridien (from €149) is perfectly situated between the lower and upper town. The new ‘Unlock Art’ programme gives guests access to exhibitions and events at the Palais des Beaux-Arts (commonly known as Bozar), while the L’Epicerie Restaurant does a legendary Sunday brunch.

    Côté Jardin

    Côté Jardin (rooms from €99) is a friendly B&B with spacious rooms and a leafy garden that guests are encouraged to enjoy.

    Côté Jardin

    Côté Jardin (rooms from €99) is a friendly B&B with spacious rooms and a leafy garden that guests are encouraged to enjoy.

    Les Chambres de Franz

    Les Chambres de Franz (rooms from €100) is a stylish guesthouse with three generously proportioned rooms; ‘Terrasse’ has a roof terrace and views over the neighbouring gardens.

  • Shop

    Ma Maison de Papier

    Ma Maison de Papier is a fascinating treasure trove of sheet music, illustrated magazines and vintage posters, advertising everything from military propaganda to chocolate.

    Stories

    Newly opened Stories stocks limited-edition designs by five young French and Belgian creators: perfect for picking up a future fashion classic or an unusual accessory.

    Pimpinelle

    Pimpinelle sells exquisite kitchen- and cookware and also incorporates a tiny café and cooking school.

    La Petite Souris Verte

    The bright, cheerful La Petite Souris Verte sells organic children’s clothes, along with a small selection of carefully chosen toys and sit-on Wheelybugs.

    Candide

    Candide is everything you could hope for from a neighbourhood bookshop. Open every day until late, it stocks a comprehensive selection of international magazines and newspapers, along with interesting graphic books from smaller imprints.

    Scènes de Ménage

    Interiors boutique Scènes de Ménage has a tempting mix of renovated junk shop finds, travel souvenirs and home-grown design.

  • Later

    Roskam

    A peaceful place for a quiet drink during the day, the dark, welcoming Roskam is packed every evening with a mixture of die-hard locals and hipsters. The weekend brings DJ sets and live music.

    Le Countabalet

    Half bar, half club, Le Countabalet is divided into two rooms. One hosts DJ sets, while the other is more of a cosy, crowded bar.

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